Until just a few years ago, craft beer in Spain was in demand by just a handful of select epicureans. Most of us were happy if the caña was cold, well poured and our favourite brand – although even this latter requirement was not an absolute necessity.

But like a silent tide coming in from other latitudes, craft-beer fever has spread across Spain, where bars, supermarkets and delis now stock entire shelves with bottles bearing attention-grabbing labels and offering a variety of flavors and styles that we could scarcely have imagined were possible.